Climbing Hydrangea Vines: Growing Flowering Tree Pruning and Caring

Climbing Hydrangea Vines

A Climbing Hydrangea is a hardy and deciduous vine.

As the name suggests, a climbing hydrangea climbs by default, though it can also be used as ground cover.
As a ground cover, however, it may reach heights of one meter.

Climbing hydrangea are very popular with bird’s nesting; especially blackbirds are fond of it.

The hydrangea is not a demanding plant.
This plant even grows on the north, and on all kinds of soil.
Without a wall to help it up vertically, it can also grow into ground cover.
I don’t have “green” fingers but this plant seems to flourish without much effort on my part 😉
It can even survive our lousy Dutch weather …
Climbing HydrangeaA climbing hydrangea can become colossal and broad.
It can cover a single building.
When the climbing hydrangea is still small, the creeper grows slowly, but after it reaches a length of one meter, it suddenly starts growing faster.

A self-adhering, relatively hardy, deciduous climber up to 10 m high.
Flowering from June to August (the dried flower heads are very decorative in winter).
Walls are not damaged by the roots attached.
It is desirable to provide some additional points of support on the wall.

Climbing Hydrangea – The Cadillac of the Vines

Where To Plant Climbing Hydrangea Vines?

A newly planted climbing hydrangea will need some support in the beginning.

Once it starts growing it can attach itself sticking its roots on a wall.

It prefers half – shade, moist but well-drained humus-rich calcareous soil.
The climbing hydrangea blooms on year-old wood on the shoots and in the summer after flowering (August) pruned: e.g. branches that grow away from the wall.

I read that hydrangea has been used for hundreds of years as a treatment for an enlarged prostate or inflamed glands.
It seems to be one of the best herbs for the treatment of pain in connection with kidney problems, in particular, kidney stones, by the reduction of the size of the stone so that they pass easily.
They are of general interest to the entire kidney and bladder function.

The root is the part that is used for internal medicinal purposes.
The fresh root is dug in the fall and used as a syrup with honey and sugar, or simply dipped in water and drunk as tea.
Once harvested the root is very hard and difficult to process.
For prolonged use, it is cut into pieces and stored dry. Hydrangea bark can be used as a poultice or ointment for the treatment of bruises, burns, sprains and sore muscles.

I must say that I do not have any first-hand experience with any of Climbing Hydrangea’s “medical” uses.
I like the plant for how it looks against our wall.

Blooming Hydrangea

The climbing hydrangea flourishes in June-July with its beautiful flowers, but if you’re lucky, it blooms a little longer.

Hydrangea or hydrangeas are overwhelming when they bloom.
In most cases, there are two kinds of flowers small, fertile flowers in the center and larger, often differently colored sterile flowers along the edge.

Flowers and Leaves of Climbing Hydrangea

Climbing hydrangea blooms with white flowers in umbels, in May and June.
The leaves are oval in shape and are serrated on the edges.

Where To Grow Climbing Hydrangea Vines?

This Hydrangea is happy in partial shade or shade, but can also be in the sun. If he is in direct sunlight, he does need plenty of water.

This vine thrives in any soil, as long as that is not too heavy.
Furthermore, the plants prefer moist, well-drained soil that is rich in nutrients and lime content.

In our garden, it grows facing the north in a shadowy part of the backyard.
The ground in our neighborhood is rather sandy.

Hydrangea tree pruning 

Climbing hydrangea need not be pruned but can well grow up to 20 m high!

In the first spring after planting, you can remove weak or damaged branches.
New branches may need some extra support by binding them to a rack or wires along the wall
Hydrangea tree pruning may result in a good branching and a nice dense covering of the wall.

Prune the plant in late June after flowering.
Prune long branches back to about 50 cm in the place where you want the plant to branch again.
This is the best time of year if you want to have flowers again next year

After many years of climbing, the climbing hydrangea can become bald or overweight at the bottom. [Like many men!]
By pruning near the main branches back in the spring, spread over a period of three years, you will see a bushy plant reappear.

But remember, pruning a climbing hydrangea ALWAYS comes at the expense of its flowering.
Once the plant is in full growth, it is a vigorous grower and it may be necessary to prune it nevertheless.

Never prune by early August.
By pruning in this way, the plant can still create the same new shoots for nex year.

But there ‘s a downside to this.
Because when you prune immediately after flowering, you also cut the faded flower heads off, which can be very decorative in the autumn and winter.

Care For Climbing Hydrangea

Keep most hydrangeas in an acidic, humus-rich soil that contains a lot of nutrients and is a bit on the wet side.
You can limit the size of the hydrangeas every year by clipping them.

The flower color of hydrangeas varies from pink to red and blue (and white).
If you want pink flowers, you can sprinkle lime.
Getting blue flowers is difficult.
For this purpose, the soil has to be sufficient acid.
An addition of acid manure or sulfur is the best choice.
Watch out for an overdose.
This can be harmful to the roots.
Enter any additions in the autumn.
The climbing hydrangea develops self-adhesive roots, so he ideally needs no separate support when climbing.
It may take some time after planting before the climb is well on its way.

But when it finishes its climb you have a lovely vine to enjoy.

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